His passion for pork
Stéphane Jégo cooks the entire pig, from head to feet, and he does not hide his passion for this animal that has a bad reputation in France. Maison Meignan is in charge of processing Mayenne-bred suckling pigs and pigs. It supplies L’Ami Jean with ham, pork chops and whole pigs. The family grows biodynamic hay and grain for animals and their crops allow them to be self-sufficient and is therefore a part of a sustainable approach; from rearing to selling passing through the slaughterhouse, everything is based on the welfare of the animal and the taste of its flesh. The pork meat should not be tough, but tender and delicate. Therefore, the meat is pickled like in Northern Belgium where a special technique is used to give this unique flavour which pleases the chef. As it relates to pork fillet and pork loin, our friend Eric Ospital is in charge of them and Carlos is our supplier of cold meats. Evidence of how important pork is in Stéphane Jégo’s eyes. He gets exactly what he wants: a perfect meat with both rustic and sophisticated flavours, from which he uses the main cuts for gourmet recipes and he cooks the rest in casseroles for his traditional bistro recipes.
The pork cuts are cooked whole, they are shown to the client before beginning to cut. An animal is fleshy, we never talk about fat, but we consider the whole animal. This is the reason why Stéphane Jégo confirms that every part of the pig is delicious!
Pork shoulder and pork loin are cooked with carrots, onions, unpeeled garlic and laurel for a long time. Then, they are roasted on a griddle for a second caramelization of the skin until it is puffed. The pork head becomes a terrine, it is cooked in a broth until it is perfectly soft, then it is chopped and set apart in the broth before being processed. This meat can also be enjoyed as it is, meat lovers will love it. Ham is roasted and cooked with carrots, beetroot leaves, cacao and… scorched earth and bacon is eaten with fingers. Peking suckling pig, pork loin and sirloin are usually served with mash potatoes and the meat juice, the fleshy part of the meat is grilled and reveals forgotten flavours.
Pork meat inspires Stéphane Jégo to multiply the ways of magnifying it through bold cooking and associations. In accordance with the codes of French cuisine and bistronomy, he always offers pork on his menu, a meat from respectful farms and slaughterhouses, handled with love and laughter.